Showing posts with label Ateco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ateco. Show all posts

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Donuts for Easter


Besides a basket of candy, the one thing I used to look forward to on Easter Sunday morning when I was a kid was donuts. My family would gather at my grandmother’s house after church and my uncle Joe would bring over a couple of boxes of Munchkins (donut holes) and donuts from Dunkin’ Donuts. The Munchkins were for the kids, the donuts for the adults; when my cousins and I grew up (we’re talking 8, 9, 10), we graduated to full-size donuts.

I hated the powdered, lemon-filled ones, but loved Boston kreme. I used to stuff chocolate Munchkins in a mug full of hot milk and eat with a spoon. The standard vanilla glazed donuts were my favorite, and I can still feel the dryness of the plain old-fashioned variety.

So, when I was checking out Brandi Henderson’s blog (she’s the pastry chef at Delancey, an excellent Seattle pizza place), I Made That, all those Easter donut memories came rushing back. Except, her donuts look a lot fresher and more delicious than the fast food ones I used to eat.

I’ve made donuts at home before, but, unlike her, never used yeast in the batter, which is probably why they turned out more like a fried cookie than a cakey donut. I really like how she lets the donuts rise on a baking sheet – think of all the delicious little caverns created by taking that one little (totally genius) step. Her recipe seems so simple, so delicious – I might even spring for a sprig of vanilla bean.

I’m going to attempt Brandi’s recipe this Easter. I’ll probably have to make a dozen, at least, because I’m going to a friend’s house for lunch. It’s very important to have a hole in the donut large enough so that you can hold the thing while dunking in coffee. So, I’ll be using this Ateco doughnut cutter for speed and consistency. And, of course, a big, sturdy wire strainer to move the donuts in and out of the oil, like this one from Helen Chen.

Now, if I could just get Dunkin’ Donuts to ship me a couple of liters of fresh coffee, I’d be able to re-live my childhood Easters.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Vol Au Vent Cutters



Vol au Vent à la Financière
Invented by the early 19th century pioneer of haute cuisine, Marie-Antoine Carême, vol-au-vent are delicate puff pastries that resemble a small crock and lid. They’re so light and airy they may take "flight of the wind" if you’re not careful when pulling them from the oven. To keep them from escaping out the kitchen window on a summer breeze, the pastries should be filled with savory or sweet ingredients, from cocks' combs to raspberries and whipped cream. Wait. What? Cocks' combs? Yes, cocks’ combs, the fleshy, red mohawk-like plume on top of a rooster's head. One of the original and classic fillings for vol-au-vent is called à la Financière and involves cocks' combs, chicken quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, and Madeira. Essentially translating to Banker's Vol-au-Vent, the name refers to the rich ingredients, and presumably to their suitability for affluent finance workers. Cocks' combs may not be high on your list of appetizing ingredients, or popular with your stock broker, but there’s no need to go authentic if you’re not feeling so adventurous. Just about any type of ragout variation works well as savory filling. And just about any type of fruit pie filling or custard works well as a sweet filling. Some ideas to get your imagination started are listed below the pictures of Vol au Vent Cutters.

Traditionally vol-au-vent are round. But now vol-au-vent cutters from Ateco take the delectable pastry into new territory with flower, heart, triangle, tree, and star shapes. Carême would be envious.

Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, 4-Petal Flower Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, Daisy Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, Heart
$5.09 $5.09 $5.09
Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, Triangle Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, Tree Ateco Vol au Vent Cutter, Star
$5.09 $5.09 $5.09

Savory Vol Au Vent Filling Ideas:
• Curried Chicken
• Caramelized Onions, Grilled Pears, and Blue Cheese
• Roasted Vegetables in Balsamic Glaze
• Shellfish Étouffée
• Lobster with Béarnaise Sauce
• Lamb Osso Bucco

Sweet Vol Au Vent Filling Ideas:
• Fresh Fruit and Whipped Cream
• Fruit Compote and Pastry Cream
• Chocolate Mousse with Hazelnuts
• Bavarian Cream with Shaved Chocolate
• Dried Fruits and Nuts Drizzled with Honey
• Stewed Apples and Cinnamon